A heightened ‘lull’ — #300DaysofSurfing
A lull in surfing is the quiet period between sets of waves. Waves often come in sets or ‘trains’ as they call it and there is a lull when it's over for a brief few seconds before it starts/happens all over again.
My last blog entry was on 05 Sept and precisely after 30 days, I am finally stepping out of the heightened lull.
The last few days have felt like groundhog day, the same grind again and again. Surfing is the only constant through this phase and what kept me going through prolonged lockdowns, border closures, and the uncertainty of international travel and seeing family again.
The waves have been mediocre…nothing crazy or special. The swell keeps coming in a bit straight as the last 30 days have been full of southerlies. Not sure if it's the swing of seasons, weather systems, etc leading to this but a lot of southerlies have been bracing the coastline.
This was also the first time I have probably gone without surfing for more than a week between the second Pfizer shot and a prolonged healing period which kept me out of water.
I took the time to rejuvenate, see more of the coastline, and just explore within constraints of lockdown. Turimetta Beach is a hidden and not-so-popular beach just north of its popular counterpart — Narrabeen beach.
The other interesting occurrence/incident worth mentioning would be the ding on my surfboard. I pulled into a hollow steep wave which almost immediately closed out and the lip took me down. The board hit the sandbank which was already exposed due to the low tide and hit me in the thigh causing a bruise while wrecking the nose of the board…thanks to George from the surf shop I was able to get it fixed for 80 bucks but the board definitely didn't see the first few days of a great swell due to this incident! Surfing always makes me realize you are so minuscule and inconsequential against the might of the ocean. I look at the incident as just a reminder of the lesson…
I pen this blog as I complete a surf session today. The ocean continues to pulse through to Day 4 of this swell train.
I realized I also hit another milestone, as this completes 3 months of the blog and the stories documented here. The swell this week was phenomenal with a great easterly bracing us from Friday 01 October onwards. There was a low pressure created which sent easterlies hammering down the coastline. Friday, was Day 1 of a crazy run that is still ongoing. I went to the beach around 07 am and was welcomed by a pulsing ocean. Still felt a little shaky since the prolonged break but it wasn't soon before I was able to find my rhythm and the surf run continues…
Sometimes you just need enough to keep you going. Thanking the universe for the waves…
Join my journey as I chase #300DaysOfSurf, share my story, learnings, experiences, and thoughts.
Why am I doing this?
No particular reason. I just hope that this journey encourages you to step out of your comfort zone and do something that enriches your journey and makes the most of the situation during this pandemic!
I will also be contributing to a cause at the end of this journey (for every day of surf I will be giving away $10 to a cause — details are to follow as I shortlist organizations creating positive impact via sport).
Money raised so far:
Day 36 — Day 50: $180 total
06th to 12th Sept: $70
14 Sept, 16 Sept, 17 Sept, 18 Sept, 19 Sept, 22 Sept and 23 sept: $70
Oct 1, Oct 2, Oct 3, and Oct 4: $40
Total (to date): $530
